Date: 1/9/21 7:51 pm
From: Jeff Maw (via carolinabirds Mailing List) <carolinabirds...>
Subject: Re: Request for Photography Tips
Hey Steve,

I have been doing bird photography as a hobby for about 10 years. I have
been lucky enough to have been published 26 times. Most often by Cornell
Lab of Ornithology in their calendars, flash cards and regional guide
books. Some of my photographs can be seen on my Flickr site.;!!OToaGQ!42RgJHa7YafESvjUY-CyfHYh-ayx9dj5seNvan-B1kz-xaM8-jVFbEKpn9tPkFAMueY$ . I would be glad to talk with you
regarding your interest in bird photography. If you are interested, email
me back directly and we can connect via phone.


On Sat, Jan 9, 2021 at 9:01 PM Fischer David <carolinabirds...> wrote:

> Steve, et al.
> I have used the canon EOS 7D (as well as 7D mark II) and 100-400 mm canon
> zoom lens. This is a great set up to learn bird photography. Regarding
> settings, I would recommend you start with the TV or shutter speed priority
> mode, especially to get sharper images of birds in flight. Your shutter
> speed should ideally be 1000th of a second or faster to freeze the action.
> The camera will then select the right aperture (f stop) setting for your
> lighting conditions and selected ISO setting. You can put the ISO setting
> on "auto" which means the camera automatically selects this also, but
> beware that unless you have very good light, it may select a high setting
> that results in a noisy image. Wayne mentions he leaves the ISO at 200,
> but you can get reasonably clean images with the 7D at ISO settings up to
> 1000 and I've shot plenty of images with higher ISO settings that are more
> than adequate for documenting rare birds.
> You asked about shooting birds in flight. I also recommend checking out
> instructional videos on you tube. As a general rule when shooting a flying
> bird against a bright sky you will need to adjust the exposure compensation
> setting upward 1-3 stops so the bird doesn't appear too dark but instead is
> properly exposed. You can do this from the Q button menu.
> Getting birds in focus, whether flying or perched, can also be a
> challenge. I recommend using a single spot focus point or maybe this plus
> some additional points nearby (especially when trying to track birds in
> flight). Again check out you tube videos.
> Lastly, go out and take lots of images and see what works for you.
> David Fischer
> Cary, NC
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Wayne Hoffman <carolinabirds...>
> To: Christopher Hill <Chill...>
> Cc: steve stevens <stevevonsteve...>; carolinabirds <
> <carolinabirds...>
> Sent: Sat, Jan 9, 2021 6:10 pm
> Subject: Re: Request for Photography Tips
> Hi -
> First, I am going to quibble a bit with Chris. His tips are very good for
> getting the best-lit photos. However, if you are trying to document
> sightings, rather than (or in addition to) creating art, then you need to
> learn how to take photos in whatever conditions you have. If you cannot
> get to a point where the sun is directly behind you, take photos anyway.
> Or, take a few, then try to move into position to get the better ones. In
> other words, do not let the perfect be the enemy of the adequate. Learn
> how to take photos that are side-lit, even back-lit. Your best photos from
> an artistic perspective likely will come in Chris's early morning light,
> but if the Kirtland's Warbler pops up in front of you at noon you still
> need to know how to get a serviceable photo at noon.
> 1. Once you have invested in the camera and lens, the cost of the next
> digital photo you take is incredibly low. All you are really doing is
> re-arranging electrons in your storage media, and all it costs to take the
> next shot is a tiny bit of the electrical charge in the battery. So, take
> lots of shots, and learn to be ruthless in discarding the poorer ones.
> 2. Bird photography very often requires quick reactions, so it is helpful
> to anticipate the camera settings you are going to need for the next bird
> you encounter. If you wait until after you find the bird before deciding
> what ISO, what f-stop, etc. often the bird will be gone before you are
> ready. If you are trying to photograph flying birds, it will usually be
> gone before you are ready. It also helps to have the autofocus somewhat
> ranged in in anticipation of the next bird you expect to encounter. If you
> have a flock of songbirds working through a hedgerow in front of you,
> pre-focusing on the branches where you expect a bird to pop up can save
> precious seconds. If you had just been focusing on a TV soaring hundreds
> of feet away, it might take the camera a while to find its way back to
> relatively close focus.
> 3. So what settings should you use? I am not familiar with the program
> options on your new camera, but pick one that usually meets your needs, and
> learn it well. It used to very common for bird photographers to leave the
> camera set on Av (aperture priority), and set the aperture (and ISO) for
> the overall light conditions, but I recently read a review that recommended
> using "Tv" (shutter priority) on the particular new camera being reviewed.
> The reasoning had to do with the order in which that particular camera
> adjusted aperture and ISO. I still use Av, and set the aperture anywhere
> from F4 to F8 depending on overall light conditions. I leave the ISO at
> 200 most of the time. Thus if I have a bird hopping around in the shade,
> and it moves into the sun, the camera will adjust the exposure to
> compensate, and I do not have to change any settings - just keep focusing
> and shooting. Probably others can give you better advice on what works
> best for your camera.
> Hope this helps -
> Wayne Hoffman
> Wilmington
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "carolinabirds" <carolinabirds...>
> To: "steve stevens" <stevevonsteve...>
> Cc: "carolinabirds" <carolinabirds...>
> Sent: Saturday, January 9, 2021 12:26:01 PM
> Subject: Re: Request for Photography Tips
> That is a good rig for bird photography. I think you will be pleased.
> I’m not a real photographer but I like it when my casual bird photographs
> look pleasing. So my tips would be
> 1) get close.
> 2) have the light coming from directly behind you. When you learn to
> shoot with your shadow extending directly toward the bird, you will be
> surprised at what a difference it makes.
> 3) shoot in morning light, that golden hour when the low light coming from
> behind you has some color to it. Right now, probably 7:30-9am. Earlier as
> the season progresses.
> Rules are made to be broken, but those, in my opinion, are the basics.
> And I know you said flight photography too. I’m ignoring that part though
> the same three rules apply.
> Chris Hill
> Conway, SC
> > On Jan 9, 2021, at 11:49 AM, steve stevens <carolinabirds...>
> wrote:
> >
> > CAUTION: This email originated from outside your organization. Exercise
> caution when opening attachments or clicking links, especially from unknown
> senders.
> >
> > Hello,
> >
> > After years of deal hunting I recently put together a camera setup that
> might be appropriate for birds/wildlife (canon 7d mark i, 100-400 lens) and
> was curious if anyone had any resources or guidance on how to best use
> these tools. I'm an absolute beginner (as all my blurry eBird photos show)
> but I'm particularly interested in trying to learn how to photograph
> waterbirds/birds in flight well.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > steve
> >
> > Chapel Hill, NC
> >

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